I Won’t Be Long

Name: The Surfer's Journal
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Feature • 12 min read

Recklessness and repercussions at Punta de Lobos and across generations.

By Biddle Duke

Volume 34 Issue 4 (2025)

34.1
Beautiful Lives; Beautiful Deaths

Mortal liminality at the crest of a breaking wave.

By Claire Salinda
33.5
Religious None

Soul surfing, from the Hawaiian kahunas to Ram…

By ellieduke
32.1
Accidental Metaphors

Near disasters and scarred realism with…

By Tony John Andrews
30.2
Three-Wave Hold-Down

An excerpt from the novel Under the Wave At…

By Paul Theroux

Featured in

Volume 34 Issue 4

In this issue

We dissect a cult surf auteur’s mood board, converse with a Euro festival host, and unpack the physical and emotional consequences of pushing beyond one’s limits in heavy, remote waves. We also learn about polite crowd tactics, the parallels between a vineyard and a lineup, and the origin and influence of the V-slot fin.

Preview

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I Won’t Be Long

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Beautiful Lives; Beautiful Deaths

Religious None

Accidental Metaphors

Three-Wave Hold-Down

Volume 34 Issue 4